The Days of Wine and Roses

We’ve just taken off from Ushuaia. Sitting here I think about our flight down here such a short while ago. I try to capture the way I felt as we banked over the town and saw the mountains and the Beagle Channel below us. Yet I can’t. I assume I was full of anticipation – it was nearly the last stage before we well and truly headed for Antarctica. Also some relief – over 16 hrs. in the air and countless hours hanging around in airports – to be nearly there.

I don’t think I thought about kayaking in the Antarctic as we landed in Ushuaia. My naivety!  Believing that 2 hours on the Thames would prepare me for four fairly long sessions in icy waters, surrounded by icebergs, leopard seals and whales. The terror was still some days off. Three who’d signed up didn’t start or else only did the first trip. Did I really have the nerve to back out? It would have been brave and cowardly at the same time. The fear of loss of face overcame the physical fear of getting into the water.

I’m done with penguins. Don’t get me wrong they are lovely, but they stink. They nest on pretty unattractive sites and make them even worse by pooping all over the place - walking about is a nightmare. In addition, while you were meant to keep well out of their way they didn’t bother and would come right up close and stare at any piece of clothing, before an exploratory peck or two. The mixture of penguin poo and ice was deadly. I fell over twice and a couple of people did themselves a mischief and needed the close attentions of the ship’s doctor. If you’re over 65 you take your life in your own hands messing with penguin mess.

Antarctica was beyond special. For me it brought together all the fantastical stories of ice, giants and menacing mountains. The silence was so profound. If you raised your voice only slightly you feared starting an avalanche or disturbing a long slumbering giant hidden in the icy glaciers that were all around. Whales had a profound effect on everyone. Moving slowly, slipping effortlessly beneath the waters or splashing with their tails or fins: it was quite magical. And the icebergs, cut into all shapes and sizes by the sea, wind and the sun. There was so much to take in: so much to admire and wonder over – my brain grew tired having to process all that was new and unusual.

I should be satisfied, but we’re restless creatures. Always wanting more, wanting improvement, seeking newness. Which means I’m sort of planning what I’d like to do next. If it doesn’t seem too fanciful, what about a return trip, but next time in a smaller boat with many fewer companions? Then again, maybe seeing the missus and the four bundles of fur will make me realize that you don’t need to go half way around the world to find adventure, excitement and stimulation.

P.S.

Coming into Buenos Aires we hit some bad turbulence. Dropping a few hundred feet and then rising again almost instantly has different effect on passengers. Some pray and wish a fond farewell to their loved ones. Others are like the cowboy captain in “Dr Stranglove” cheering madly as he heads for oblivion. I was the latter.

We soon found out the reason for the turbulence – a massive storm over BA. This meant we couldn’t land and we were at the tail end of a queue of planes in the air. The effect of loads of planes landing very close together was that the luggage handling facility went into melt down. Plane loads of passengers staring at empty, stationary baggage carosels and no sign of their luggage. The South Americans are an exciteable bunch and it looked at one point we might be witnessing the next revolution! After an hour, however, we had our luggage and were met by our very patient driver.

We were too tired to do anything extravagant that night it being about 9 pm before we’d showered and changed so we had a meal in the hotel and a couple of bottles of wine which we shared with a couple from Haywards Heath who were with us in Antarctica. The wine cost more than $50 a bottle – but what the heck is was an excellent Cabernet Franc and we’re on holiday – just.