The Faroes - it's not raining here also
Three hundred days of rain a year, in the goldilocks zone; neither too warm in the summer nor too cold in the winter. That's all you need to know about these islands. We left Kirkwall in Tuesday evening and arrived at Torshavn, on the main island in the early morning. Torshavn in the major town/city with a population of around twenty-five thousand.
In the morning we were taken on a guided tour of the old town - government and administration buildings - some with grass roofs but also lovely houses which were home to lucky Faroese with small gardens and narrow roads. The old town is in stark contrast to the rest of this tiny city which is full of modern homes, offices, and hotels. All the services provided are free - paid through taxation - they have no Council Tax. Most people seem to live in detached homes, but recent economic resurgence has led to a large influx of newcomers and stylish flats are being built.
The weather was near perfect; sun all day no sign of rain and after a hearty lunch back on the ship we took a coach to Kirkjubour, the site of St Magnus Cathedral and the oldest continuously inhabited dwelling (from 16th century).
The cathedral is not much to write home about - open to the elements and very much a ruin. Its position on a promontory, however, provides spectacular views of the islands Hestur, Koltur, Vagar and Mykines as they progressively blue into the distance. The Faroese must be related to Hobbits as they have an insatiable appetite for boring holes: connecting one island to another with tunnels. The roads are impressive - although built dangerously into the side of the hills and mountains.
You need a car get around. I swear the Faroes has the highest car ownership per head of population in the world. Cars (new ones at that) were everywhere. I counted four huge car showrooms in Toshavn packed with shiny new vehicles.
They have museums, football grounds, sports centres, a ten-pin bowling alley! a university and loads of primary and secondary schools. After a pretty rough time economically in the 1990s the place is buzzing with activity and unemployment almost non-existent. The Nordic brand of social democracy provides a much better live style for most of its citizens than the brash Anglo-American capitalism that we in the UK have to suffer.
Leaving Torshavn we sailed into the sunset - literally - a spectacular lazy sunset, blue sky with fluffy clouds and a backdrop of stunning mountains, cliff and sea bird spotted ocean. Our next port of call on Thursday is a fiord where we'll explore the bird population on the looming cliffs and visit a small fishing town.
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