"All the Way to Memphis"




We’re on board the Mothership  “Enterprise” MS Expedition. Hugely well organized. The boat docked last night to throw off the last group of tourists and by 4 pm this afternoon we were all on board and in our surprisingly spacious and comfortable cabins. There was a place for everything and everything had its place. In no time we’d unpacked and stowed all our stuff. The “en suite” is small but perfectly formed and I decided that a shower and a clean change of clothing was the ideal way to welcome myself aboard.

We’re on Deck 3 with a lovely view of the sea. Then we were summoned to main reception for a safety briefing along with our life jackets, which are stored under our beds. This was fun as we had to put them on and then traipse upstairs  to the upper deck to look at the lifeboats and imagine abandoning ship!

After that we had the welcome briefing, meeting all the crew from the chef to the scientists and Zodiac drivers. Immediate excitement was a very colourful weather map showing a huge storm in Drake’s Passage – it looked like a hurricane. Anyway – we weren’t going there just now. Would spend tonight anchored in the calm Beagle Channel.

Then it was the turn of the Captain – a barrel chested Russian with an incredibly thick accent. He sounded like the ancient mariner having sailed on all the seas. He then introduced his executive team and finally we all had a glass of champers to celebrate.

By then we were all ready for our dinner. Very nice, substantial and we shared it with three Australians who were doing South America. Lots of laughs and I think we’ll be dining with them some more. The only downside was being given a receipt every time you ordered a drink.

The internet is satellite connected and essential. Captain Scott would be turning in his grave were he not frozen in to see what today’s Antarctic explorers deem to be essentials.

After supper it was down a deck to get fitted out with our Southwesters. With little tags to show who you are. It’s amazing how much fun people can get from watching others trying to zip up. Then back to our cabin before I was off to my kayaking briefing. I’m paired up with an Australian lady of indeterminate age. Her name is Jenny – I haven’t mentioned the royal marriage yet but no doubt that’ll come up.

And we have to be in the Mud Room at 8 am to get fitted up for our kayaking.  Our instructors/guides properly prepared us with warnings about high winds, capsizing and life expectancy in the near freezing waters. When I asked one of them how many people had capsized he said none on his watch. Oh! and if you did tip over a Zodiac would be there and heaving you out of the water in less than a minute.

On that cheerful note we went back to our cabins. And for a first night on the high seas.


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